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Lager lout

7/2/2017

6 Comments

 
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Beer of the year is often an interesting thread to follow, though determining my own beer of the year often proves a fruitless task. So many factors influence the decision and there is so much good beer out there. I still have a pretty good idea of what my top three for 2016 were judged by the definition I have in my head but can’t necessarily articulate, but if I skew that definition to being about the beer that exceeded my expectations the most, a new candidate leaps straight to the top.
 
By challenging one’s preconceptions and expectations we often find joy in the most surprising of places.
 
Lager.
 
In my younger days cold and flavourless lager was my drink of choice for several years and my development as a beer drinker leaves a snobbish opinion of lager by association with those years. It’s an outlook I see repeatedly in the beer shop – it’s almost not the done thing to buy lager if one is into indie beer.
 
Thus, last year I tried to push my own boundaries and started to drink one or two lagers, reminded of the definition of lagering – to cold store during conditioning – rather than seeing a pint of Carling Black Label in my mind’s eye.
 
And now, if I think back to 2016 with the definition of best beer being the one that exceeded my expectations the most I have a clear winner – Marble Brewery’s Metal Series Your Betrayal American Pilsner. It’s a while since I had this beer but what particularly sticks in my mind is the tremendous flavour hit from the Equinox, Citra and Cascade hops but more so, the incredible body and mouthfeel – from a lager. My interest was piqued.
 
I’m never good at predictions (though I think sours will be big in 2017) so perhaps I should focus on styles I will make big for me in 2017 by challenging myself and seeking out good quality examples of that style. For me therefore, I predict that lager will be much bigger in 2017 than it was in 2016!
 
With that in mind and having persuaded my boss at the bottle shop to give Lost & Grounded Brewers a go on the shelves, I recently dived in to a Lost & Grounded Keller Pils that I bought, alongside another of their lagers – Running with Sceptres - from Copper’s of Gosforth, where I work.
 
Lost & Grounded Keller Pils
 
It poured a pale, golden straw colour with a white frothy head and carbonation looked spot on. I got an instant malty aroma which was certainly inviting and provided promise for a beer with flavour. For me, I’d have preferred better head retention as by the first sip there was little of that frothy head remaining but determined to drink with senses other than sight, I delved in.
 
On taking a draught and letting it linger on the palate a little I was struck by the very full mouthfeel presented, not dissimilar to that of Your Betrayal – it danced on my tongue as I started to detect savoury biscuit and toast flavours, that with it’s subtle woody and bitter finish, made this lager a pleasant drink to the last.
 
From a 330ml bottle I was left wanting more and whilst my sessions tend not to see the same beer poured more than once I could quite easily enjoy a session on a few schooners of this, particularly on a hot summers day. That said, it hit the spot in the bleak mid winter too. I would heartily recommend trying Lost & Grounded if you’re yet to do so. I expect to see exciting things from them in this, their first full calendar year in production. This and the saison ‘Hop Hand Fallacy’ which I had at the back end of last year in Pleased To Meet You, have both impressed.
 
So really, despite already having had the odd excellent lager from the likes of Marble, Anarchy Brew Co and Cloudwater Brew Co last year, I feel that my lager quest has now truly begun. Don’t get me wrong, I shall still be consuming my fair share of IPAs and APAs, but I am determined to scale my wall of prejudices this year too. I would encourage you to do the same, whether it be with lager, saison or sour beers (or whatever), talk to your bottle shop or the staff in your pub and ask them to help you push your boundaries and stretch your horizons. Over the past couple of years I have grown to love sours, not least with the help of the terrifically knowledgeable team at the Free Trade Inn who have introduced me to sours properly (don't miss their excellent annual Sours Festival) and encouraged me to try more along the way. What’s the worst that can happen? There’s always another beer out there after all.
 


6 Comments
Dan
7/2/2017 05:34:26 am

Great read!
A great lager is something that people will always go back to after they have had their fill of hoppy beers.
I went to the lost and grounded showcase in London last year and every beer was a clever master piece. There's nowhere to hide behind a Keller pils.
As I've tried more beers as they have grown and dialed in these beers they just get better and better and the future will be huge for these guys and gals.
Their porter was exceptional and their saison was one of my favorite beers at indyman.
Watch this space. These good folk are on the way to the top!

Keep writing!
Dan.

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Paul
7/2/2017 07:43:01 am

Hi Dan,

I certainly intend to increase my sampling of lagers but will be selective in what I try and brewed by whom.

Yeah, I too expect big things from Lost & Grounded this year which was my motivation for trying to get them in stock in the shop. It''ll be interesting to see how the North-East takes to them as the majority of our sales are pales and IPAs and the L&G brews available thus far have been alternative styles which as far as I understand are likely to form much of their range. It's all about education.

Cheers - Paul

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John S
8/2/2017 02:08:56 pm

Great blog again - I think it's important to take a step back at times and look more broadly at the different ales and lagers we have in the UK currently.
A theme that stands out for me is that of 'quality', whether it be an IPA, APA, Sour, Stout or lager...if you can deliver a consistent quality product with a difference to the mainstream, then this is where you will see consumers move towards. If this happens to be a lager renaissance then that's fine, just don't mine a radler!
Good work on the blog - great thought provoking detail without the air of craft ale pretention!

Reply
Paul
9/2/2017 01:03:31 am

Thanks John,

Glad you found it thought provoking.

Yes, you're right, quality (and consistency) is the key. I can think of one or two lagers from indie brewers on their shelves I won't venture towards, but then again for some of those, I don't drink their other styles either.

Cheers,

Paul

Reply
Kris
9/2/2017 08:56:51 am

I really hope this year is the year of the lager. It is an undervalued style and so many decent bars now have a wide selection of IPA / hoppy pale beers but pay little attention to their pilsners and lagers (especially on draft), or opt for something quite bland to satisfy the people who dont want the other hoppy beers.

Like you, growing up I mostly drank mass produced lager, because it is what was available. From there I moved on to belgian beers and avoided lager for some time as it reminded me of the cheap lagers I'd grown up with.

Really it was going on holiday that moved me back onto lagers/pilsners. There are a lot of very palatable, session beers which are widely available in mainland Europe and are very affordable. More recently I have been enjoying Vienna lagers of which there are even fewer regularly available. Clearly Brooklyn has made some ground and is now on tap in many places and bottled in the supermarkets, but it is quite rare to see new lagers/pilsners.

One thing that is critical for me though, is that I generally want a pint. 330 ml bottles/cans of lager just dont cut it for me, particularly when they are 'craft' priced. It is a thirst quenching style and it needs to be at a suitable price point to reflect that fact. Otherwise, it will have to be a LOT better than the quite mass produced, but very good and suitably priced german/czech/polish lagers in many bars/retailers.

A few years ago I enjoyed a couple of pints of freedom pilsner on draft. It was great but I've subsequently had 330 ml bottles which werent quite as good. I do think it is a style which is best on draft and I hope a few more pop up.

Reply
Paul
9/2/2017 10:51:16 am

Hi Kris,

Thanks for sharing your thoughts. I think 330ml is here to stay for a lot of brewers and others will join - on these shores in any case. That goes for all styles. I too like a pint (or 500ml) but 330ml is going to be king in the immediate (and probably) longer future. I prefer from the tap where there is the option but like the range of beers I can have in stock at home in can or bottle.

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